Processor Installation
compiled by Robert Hancock
This depends on the type of processor you're installing. If your system has specific information about it on this FAQ, you should read that first.
Slot 1 processor installation on Slot 1 board:
This is generally a fairly simple installation. To remove your old processor, it's best to follow the directions in your Dell manual (can be read on support.dell.com in the "Your System Documentation" section after you select your system model). If your processor's heatsink uses a retainer bar, it can be left off as the new processor does not use it for support.
Generally, the installation will be pretty much the same as the procedure in the Dell manual as well, however there will be a few differences. Dell uses either a large passive heatsink (D and R-series), or a passive heatsink plus a plastic air duct to the chassis cooling fan (T, B and V-series) to cool the processor, whereas the new processor will have a heatsink with attached fan. DO NOT attempt to put the old heatsink on the new processor. If your system uses a plastic air duct from the chassis cooling fan to the processor, remove it as it is no longer necessary (the new CPU has a fan of its own) and likely won't fit over the new processor's heatsink anyway.
The new processor will have a fan power connector to supply power to the CPU's cooling fan. Most system boards have a jack near the processor slot that this can be plugged into. The V-series is one that may not, in this case you can get adapters that will let you connect the CPU fan connector to a spare drive power connector from the power supply. DO NOT just leave the processor fan disconnected, as the processor will overheat.
Alternately, see the link at the top of the page for another method of securing the CPU down, using a plastic tie wrap.
Finally, newer Slot 1 processors use the SECC2 CPU format, while apparently the processor retention (hold-down) clips in most of these systems are either designed for original SECC processors, or else are designed for some strange Dell version of SECC2, and therefore won't lock the CPU in place properly. This is likely OK if your system stays in one place and isn't moved; however, if you want to be sure the processor is secured down properly, you will want to do something to ensure that the CPU stays in place.
The cheapest way to do this is to use a plastic tie wrap through the tops of the retention brackets to hold in the CPU. There is a link in the links section at the top of the page which talks about this. It's a bit of a hack, but it works. In case you're wondering, you shouldn't have to worry about the tie wrap melting from the CPU heat, the CPU would be toast if it reached that temperature anyway.
If you want to use the "real" solution to this problem, you will need to get some different retention clips that work with SECC2 and will fit on the motherboard. Retention clips made for the SEPP Celeron processors should also work with an SECC2 processor. The electronics mail-order company DigiKey carries some retention clips, shown in their catalog here. These motherboards attach the retention mechanism using studs that stick through from the back of the motherboard, and nuts attached to the mechanism screw onto these from the front of the motherboard. The only type of retention mechanism that DigiKey carries that fits onto these studs is a Celeron retention mechanism, part number A15108-ND, costing $5.39 US. Apparently it takes a fair amount of force to get the CPU into that Celeron-style mechanism. (One person reported it was easier if they flexed the clips outward a bit while installing the CPU.) However, if you are willing to remove the motherboard and take the studs out from the back, apparently the universal retention mechanism (URM) they have, part number A15115-ND, costing $2.06 US, would fit - it uses push-in plastic fasteners to attach right to the motherboard. These will accept all Slot 1 processors: SECC, SECC2 and SEPP. These would also likely be easier for installing the CPU. However, you would have to remove the motherboard to put it in, which means removing all expansion cards and disconnecting all cables to the motherboard first. It's up to you as to whether the effort is worth it. Doug Mitchell has some step-by-step instructions on doing this here.
DigiKey does have a handling fee of $5 (US) for orders under $25. I've dealt with this company before, they seem to have pretty good service. A local computer store may have these retention mechanisms available as well, if you can find one that does, it would likely be easier and cheaper than ordering them by mail.
Another consideration is that Intel has basically phased out the Slot 1 CPU package, so it may end up cheaper and easier to use an FC-PGA processor even though you have to use a slocket.
PPGA or FC-PGA processor installation on Slot 1 board using slocket adapter:
This page on Intel's site lists slocket adapters which they have tested and found to meet or not meet basic compatibility requirements for the Pentium III FC-PGA processor.
Here's a summary of what slocket adapters are known to work or not work:
- Iwill Slocket II: Many reported successes, by far the most common slocket used. A few people have said that they had bootup problems, and that one or more of the jumpers on the slocket didn't seem to fit securely on the pins, reseating the jumpers or replacing them with different ones fixed the problem. Note that Intel reports the IWill Slocket II versions 0.9 and 1.0 as failing their tests, however most of them out there now are later versions (1.2 generally) which probably fix whatever the problem was. They list an IWill Slocket III as passing - this would presumably be their voltage-regulating slocket they have hesitated to release. See the main page section on voltage-regulating slockets for more info on this. Apparently the 1 GHz FC-PGA boxed processors are coming with heatsink/fan units which have installation problems on some Iwill Slocket IIs because the socket locking lever hits the heatsink. If you have this problem, you can just take some pliers (Vice-Grips, etc) and gently bend the lever into a straighter shape so that the heatsink fits properly. Either that, or use a different heatsink like a Thermaltake Golden Orb. Don't just put the heatsink on if it's not seating properly, it might not cool the chip properly. It seems there is a new 2.0 version of the Iwill Slocket II which has a socket locking lever that does not interfere with the heatsink and should work just fine without any pliers action :-) Update: I have received a report that these are no longer being manufactured. However you may still be able to get one.
- Abit SLOTket III: Confirmed not to work. System would not power up at all. Did pass Intel's tests (version 0.82), what versions the people who reported it not to work were using is not known.
- Epox EP-S1C: Confirmed not to work. System would not power up at all. Did pass Intel's tests (version 1.2), what versions the people who reported it not to work were using is not known.
- AOpen FC-PGA Converter Card: 1 report that it worked fine, 1 report that it didn't work at all. Current version passed Intel's tests.
- Asus S370-133/S370-DL: Found to work, although attachment mechanism doesn't fit securely in processor retention clips so may come loose. From pictures it seems like this is made to fit the newer SECC2-style retention clips instead of the SECC ones most of these systems seem to have. I suppose if you wanted to you could replace the clips with newer SECC2-style ones if you found some that would fit. Additionally, I have a report that this slocket failed to work on a B-series system while others did. Passed Intel's tests (version 1.01).
- MSI MS-6905 Master 2.0: Found to work (1 reported upgrade with this slocket), although apparently it doesn't work on B-series machines. This one, like the Asus, looks like it might not fit the retention clips properly from images I've seen, but reportedly it actually does fit OK. Passed Intel's tests (version 2.0, versions 1.0 and 1.1 did not).
- Soltek SL-02A++: 2 reported successful upgrades. Passed Intel's tests (version 4.5).
- 370SPC Rev 1.0 CPU Card (aka StarTech.com part # PPGA2SLOT1): 1 reported successful upgrade. Has retention blocks, not shown in picture. No voltage settings, has jumper to select auto FSB or to force it to 100 MHz.
- QDI CPU Card: 1 reported successful upgrade. Has voltage setting jumpers.
- Gigabyte GA-6R7Pro / GA-6R7+: The Pro version apparently has voltage selection jumpers, while the + version doesn't (I guess it just uses the automatic setting). GA6R7+ passed Intel's tests (version 1.1). I have one successful upgrade report with a GA-6R7+ adapter on an R-series machine. They noted that the support for the adapter/CPU is not great due to the two small retention blocks, but it is sufficient.
- PowerLeap PL-iP3 / PL-iP3/T: These adapters have an onboard voltage regulator which bypasses the motherboards'. See "What's this about slockets with an onboard regulator?" in "Other miscellaneous questions", as well as my review of the PL-iP3/T.
The slocket definitely must be designed to work with FC-PGA Coppermine CPUs. Older slockets which support only the older PPGA Celeron chips will NOT work. You should use one that uses a plastic case around it so that it fits properly in the processor retention clips. Some slockets don't have this, so they're more susceptible to coming loose from the processor slot.
Some more slockets which may work but have not been tried to my knowledge:
- Magic-Pro MP-A8++: Passed Intel's tests (version 4.5). May really be the same as the Soltek SL-02A++?
The slocket's voltage and FSB (front-side bus) settings should be set to the automatic position unless you are overclocking. (If you are overclocking, please consult the R-series page for information on the proper settings.) The jumper that selects between the FC-PGA and PPGA must be set to the proper position depending on the CPU, and the CPU setting must be set to Intel (as opposed to Cyrix). Note that for the Iwill slocket, the instruction page may confusingly label the voltage jumper positions for automatic as "No CPU". This page on their web site has a more accurate description. Also, please note that the jumpers on the IWill are NOT in numerical order 1-9 as they go down, they go 6 to 9 and then 1-5 from top to bottom. Please make sure that you look at the markings next to the jumpers so that you set the proper ones. Finally, to avoid problems, make sure that all the jumpers are fully seated on the pins - some people have reported that the jumpers weren't fully seated on the pins or were loose on them which caused problems, and after reseating or replacing the jumper(s), it worked fine. So you may want to check this at this point. If a jumper seems like it's sort of loose on the pins, try taking it off and turning it around the other way, and putting it back on the same set of pins to see if it's tighter that way.
Insert the processor into the slocket and attach the heatsink/fan following Intel's instructions (should be included with a retail boxed CPU, are also available in PDF format for Pentium IIIs and FC-PGA Celerons, and for PPGA Celerons). If you are using a different heatsink/fan you will need to follow the instructions provided by its manufacturer. Some tips for attaching the Intel heatsink/fan unit: Orient the unit so that the fan wire points in the direction of the PGA370 mark on the socket. Put the clip on the side of the unit opposite this mark onto the attachment on the socket first, then position the unit onto the processor making sure it's straight. (Try not to slide it around on top of the processor too much, as this may smear off some of the thermal interface material on the bottom of the heatsink.) Then take a small flat-blade screwdriver and stick the end into the slot in the top of the other clip, above the hole that latches onto the socket. Then use the screwdriver to pull the clip down and pry it outwards so that you can slip it over the attachment on that side of the socket. It does take a fair amount of force.
If you are using a 1 GHz FC-PGA processor, included retail heatsink/fan unit and an Iwill Slocket II older than revision 2.0, see the slocket section above for info on the socket locking lever possibly interfering with the heatsink.
Next, remove your existing processor - don't forget to disengage the heatsink retainer bar first if your system has one, follow the instructions in your Dell manual, or on this page on their site. (You will no longer need the retainer bar portion, the new heatsink/fan does not use it for support.)
If you are installing a slocket which has a large heatsink attached to it, and your system has a heatsink retainer bar, you might need to remove it from the motherboard to prevent it from obstructing the heatsink and therefore not allowing you to slide in the adapter. To do this:
- Remove the blue portion that engages the CPU heatsink (presumably you removed this already to take the CPU out).
- Take a small flat-blade screwdriver and use it to pull out the two plastic retainer pieces that go into each end of the bar. They fit fairly snugly in their holes, so you will require some pressure to pull them out.
- Next, grip the bar at one end and pull straight out from the motherboard. This may require a decent amount of pulling pressure. You can brace your fingers against the motherboard to help, but do NOT use any hard prying instrument or you could gouge out traces, etc. on the motherboard. After you pop this end out, you should be able to lift that end up and the other end will come out quite easily.
Plug the slocket with the processor and heatsink/fan attached into the processor slot. Make sure the latches on top of the slocket have moved outwards so that they engage with the retention mechanism.
Finally, plug the power lead for the fan into the fan header jack near the processor slot on the motherboard, labelled J4M1 on this diagram. There was nothing plugged in there before because the original Dell processor uses only a heatsink, with no fan. Be sure you don't forget this step, unlike the original heatsink, heatsink/fan combos aren't meant to run without the fan spinning and may overheat. (Note: V-series machines may not have a jack to plug the fan into, in this case you need an adapter to let you connect the CPU fan to a drive power connector from the power supply. DO NOT just leave the processor fan disconnected, as the processor will overheat.)
FC-PGA processor installation on Socket 370 board:
This is should be a fairly simple installation. To remove your old processor, it's best to follow the directions in your Dell manual (can be read on support.dell.com in the "Your System Documentation" section after you select your system model).
Dell uses a passive heatsink, sometimes with a plastic air duct to the chassis cooling fan, to cool the original processor, whereas the new processor will have a heatsink with attached fan. You should not attempt to put the old heatsink on the new processor. If your system uses a plastic air duct from the chassis cooling fan to the processor, remove it as it is no longer necessary (the new CPU has a fan of its own) and likely won't fit anyway.
Insert the new processor into the slocket and attach the heatsink/fan following Intel's instructions (should be included with a retail boxed CPU, are also available in PDF format for Pentium IIIs and FC-PGA Celerons, and for PPGA Celerons). If you are using a different heatsink/fan you will need to follow the instructions provided by its manufacturer. Some tips for attaching the Intel heatsink/fan unit: Orient the unit so that the fan wire points in the direction of the PGA370 mark on the socket. Put the clip on the side of the unit opposite this mark onto the attachment on the socket first, then position the unit onto the processor making sure it's straight. (Try not to slide it around on top of the processor too much, as this may smear off some of the thermal interface material on the bottom of the heatsink.) Then take a small flat-blade screwdriver and stick the end into the slot in the top of the other clip, above the hole that latches onto the socket. Then use the screwdriver to pull the clip down and pry it outwards so that you can slip it over the attachment on that side of the socket. It does take a fair amount of force.
The new processor's heatsink/fan will have a fan power connector to supply power to the CPU's cooling fan. Most system boards have a jack near the processor slot that this can be plugged into. There was nothing plugged in there before because the original Dell processor uses only a heatsink, with no fan. Be sure you don't forget this step, unlike the original heatsink, heatsink/fan combos aren't meant to run without the fan spinning and may overheat. (Note: Some machines may not have a jack to plug the fan into, in this case you need an adapter to let you connect the CPU fan to a drive power connector from the power supply. DO NOT just leave the processor fan disconnected, as the processor will overheat.)